A black-tailed prairie dog nibbling on a blade of grass while surveying the scene.
Prairie dogs live in underground burrows in usually large colonies. They are welcome food items for coyotes and other predators. These images were obtained in Wind Cave National Park, in Wyoming.
This adult prairie dog with youngster is sitting upright in characteristic sentinel mode. Facing in opposite directions, the pair have the field covered. Often, prairie dogs will sit atop mounds of soil for better visibility.
I was lucky to spot this coyote on the chase for a meal. I first saw it loping along the side of the road, so followed in the car. There was no one else about. It crossed the road, then went down into a dip. I missed the actual catch, but when the coyote came back into view, its prey was in its mouth. The black tail of this species of prairie dog is diagnostic.
Another activity to watch, was this individual collecting nesting material to take down into the burrow. It is hard to imagine that there is room for a single additional straw in the mouth of this prairie dog. I was impressed that it could hold so much.
The Richtersveld is a biodiverse, arid area in the Northern Cape Province of South Africa. In 2005, we camped in the National Park for several nights. A 4WD vehicle is essential. We would not have gained entry without it, as the approach road was a sea of mud following recent unseasonal rainfall. We passed a grader ineffectually working to extract a truck that had gone off the road and was stuck in the stuff. Later that day, I recall driving over uneven rock pavement at a steepish gradient, making that first day alone justify the expense of our capable rental. The vehicle had both good clearance and traction.
The attraction of the area for me was the possibility of finding unusual succulent plants. I grow lithops (stone plants) at home, and hoped to find some in their native habitat. Although we did not find lithops here, elsewhere in South Africa, nor in Namibia, which encompasses their native range, we saw a lot of different succulent plants, including other mesembryanthemums, in the Richtersveld. We were also lucky enough to see some in flower.
Species of Conophytum, a genus closely related to Lithops.
The scenery is magnificent. While we were visiting the park we saw few other people. There were a couple of groups camped at the De Hoop campground on the Orange River, but we had Kokerboomkloof to ourselves.
Orange RiverCamp by the Orange River
Kokerboomkloof
The kokerboom tree for which the kloof is named, is beautifully adapted to its desert habitat. Known also as the quiver tree, Aloidendron dichotomum is a succulent. It grows well in sandy and rocky soil, storing water in its thick trunk and leathery foliage.
Facilities in the campgrounds were basic. Kokerboomkloof had not water but clean rest room facilities that were tastefully designed to fit in with the environment.
The roads are 4WD tracks, but easily negotiable in dry conditions. The area feels remote and even hostile, although it supports a diverse range of plants and small animals.
This buprestid beetle (they are known as jewel beetles) is a wood borer in its larval stage. We did not see a lot of animal life. Many of the creatures of the desert are nocturnal, allowing them to avoid the desiccating heat of the scorching midday sun. In many protected areas of South Africa driving at night is not permitted. I think this may have been true in the Richtersveld. In any case, we restricted our activities to daylight hours.
Pachypodium namaquanum, halfmens or elephant’s trunk.A species of Euphorbia.
The succulent plants were spectacular. Many of them, including Pachypodium namaquanum, are slow growing, so we felt as if we were in an ancient forest.
The diversity was very high for such a harsh environment. I had already been amazed at the immense variety of plants in the Cape Region, which is classed as a biodiversity hotspot. The survival of so many species in a small area relies on a complex web on plant-animal interactions, including specialist pollinators and parasites.
The scenery was out of this world. I am always attracted to exposed rock that reveals the bones of the landscape. To me, a desert landscape offers both raw beauty of landform and interesting plants that inspire awe for their tenacity in the face of the harshest of conditions. A single flower on one of these plants may be the culmination of years of mere survival.
As individuals we are insignificant in the world. As a species were are devastatingly influential. Hopefully areas such as the Richtersveld will be preserved for future generations to appreciate.
 It requires a lot of energy to grow a rigid trunk that will allow a plant to outcompete its neighbours and capture the light it desperately needs to survive. The clever strategy adopted by climbing plants is to use these neighbours for support. Or maybe, as for this pretty, probably introduced member of the Convolvulaceae (Ipomoea indica) the climber gets a leg up using a human-built structure like this fence.
 The Norfolk Island pine, with its straight, strong trunk, provides an effective ladder for I. indica. Solomon’s sinew, or wild wisteria (Callerya australis) is a native climber that also uses the Norfolk Island pine for support. The photograph below was taken in the Botanic Gardens. The prolific foliage of the climber gathers all the energy it needs to develop thick, strong vines to maintain a structure supported by the host trees.
 Walking beneath the canopy, the vigour of Solomon’s sinew and other climbing plants is apparent from the thick vines that have developed through capturing the sun’s energy from high in the canopy of their host tree. When eventually the host tree dies and falls over, the vine sends out creeping stems to find another tree.
I wondered why these tangles of vines seem to be more common in tropical forests. Probably there are multiple factors. The trees grow faster than in temperate areas, so there is more incentive for other plants to use their structures to gain access to their height. The canopy is often dense, so understory plants have little access to sunlight essential for photosynthesis. Early accounts of the exploration of Norfolk Island tell of it being covered by impenetrable, thick forest.
I have enjoyed spending sufficient time here to explore beneath the surface. Having inadvertently left my colour camera at home, my focus has shifted from bird photography to examining the forest more closely. It is hard to imagine how Norfolk Island appeared to the first Europeans to discover it, Captain James Cook and his crew in 1774. Earlier Polynesian visitors had barely ventured inland from Emily Bay, so left the interior mostly untouched. European and Pitcairn Island settlers cleared much of the land, including felling all the largest trees, so that exotic species could be planted and farmland established. Introduced weeds thrived in the newly created environment. Nevertheless, the National Park (which includes the older Botanic Garden) was set up in 1984 to preserve and restore the original habitat. It provides an experience that will increasingly resemble the original forest as it might have been prior to settlement.
Brandberg (burning mountain), the highest point in Namibia, was surprisingly little visited as recently as 2005. This was when I had the chance to explore some of the 650-square-kilometre plateau which erupts nearly two thousand metres above the surrounding desert. It is a two day walk from the nearest road, and there is very little water up there. From about five thousand years ago until late in the nineteenth century a few San people made their home here, but now only crumbling ruins of rock dwellings and many thousands of rock paintings recall their passing.
Landsat image of Brandberg (public domain)
Our expedition was one of those fortuitous events that comes together through friendships forged in interesting circumstances. Rowan and I first visited Namibia in 1991, just one year after the country gained independence from South Africa. That was an amazing experience in itself. There were few tourists. South Africans, for whom Namibia was their holiday playground, stayed away, fearing that things might have changed under the new government. International visitors had not yet found this magic place. We discovered that camping facilities were excellent, just as in South Africa, and everything worked very well. Brandberg attracted us, but we could explore only around its base as we didn’t have the knowledge or resources to access the plateau.
Camp at the base of Brandberg, 1991Pol exploring the lower slopes of Brandberg, 1991
However, though my work in biological control of weeds, I got to know Stefan Neser, a biocontrol scientist from Pretoria and an outstanding naturalist. I talked with him and his wife, Ottilie, about going back to Namibia and maybe climbing Brandberg. Ottie followed up our idea and arranged for a group of relatives and colleagues to accompany us. Ottie’s cousin, Erica (an artist), and her husband Neerthling, an entomologist running a pest control business (also an expert on large mammals) joined us as well as Michael, another entomologist from Pretoria and Tharina, a spider expert from Windhoek, the capital of Namibia.
We drove to the base of the mountain in two rugged, high clearance vehicles belonging to expedition members. Ottie had a rough sketch map of our route that she had obtained from climbing friends and Tharina knew the route reasonably well as she had been here before. The camp spot they had chosen for us was at Longipoolies, one of few possibilities with access to water. Rainfall is sparse, but when it occurs, runoff is rapid as the rocky plateau holds almost no soil. At Longipoolies, fast flowing water has worn deep potholes in the rock which retain fresh water that we were able to use while camping there.Â
Brandberg from the road end at GasasabOn our way up BrandbergOne of the pools of freshwater near our campsite. Several had tadpoles living in them.Our camping spot
Our group of biologists had several days to explore the area. We hiked to Orabes Kopp through granite country traversing slabs of varying angles, scrambling over huge boulders, and following fissures between rock walls that sometimes became so narrow we were forced to retreat and climb a wall instead. Along the way, we noted and photographed unfamiliar plants and poked into cracks and crevices for signs of life. In that way it was easy to spend the entire day getting there. Views over the Namib desert were spectacular as Orabes Kopp lies near the edge of the plateau.
Orabes KoppView over the desert from Orabes Kopp
Another day, we headed to Konigstein, the highest point, and consequently the most popular destination, with a faint trail heading towards it. The trail passes the now famous Snake Cave, which is decorated with some of the finest aboriginal rock art that I have ever seen. The view from the summit revealed the intricate nature of the plateau: rocky peaks, narrow valleys and undulating slopes creating diverse habitats for hardy life forms that survive on little water.
Snake CaveSome of the paintings in Snake CaveKonigsteinRowan checking Summit Register: the people who had been before usView from Konigstein
Michael went home with some mosquito larvae, the first ever to be recorded from Brandberg, as well as other unusual flies. Tharina found a diversity of neat spiders and Erica made some lovely sketches. Stefan photographed many rare plants. On our last night, lying in our sleeping bags stretched out on the warm, smooth granite, and gazing up at the bright stars overhead, I fully intended to return one day to explore more of this amazing place.
Lizard found on lower slopes of BrandbergAloe hereoensisKokerboom tree (Aloidendron dichotomum), or quiver tree.Bark of the kokerboom treeGhost tree (Moringa ovalifolia)EuphorbiaCyphoctemma currorii (Vitaceae)
I’ve been scanning some old slides, and picking out a few that interest me. The image above is a wet black backed jackal in Kruger National Park. I like it because it is the only time I’ve seen a jackal out in the rain with its coat looking wet and bedraggled. The plains and deserts where animals are easiest to see generally have low rainfall. In addition, the dry season is often the best time. to visit because animals tend to be concentrated near waterholes, so easier to find. The next few images are from Etosha National Park in Namibia: zebra, a young springbok, and a spotted hyena.
The last two were also photographed in Kruger: a red hartebeest and a male elephant:
There are healthy populations of the New Zealand fur seal (Arctocephalus forsteri) all around the coast of the South Island, as well as a few that are establishing along North Island coasts. Seals have been steadily increasing in numbers since being fully protected in the 1950’s and as by-catch during fisheries operations has been reduced. The species is also found in Australia. Unlike leopard seals, which are found on sandy beaches, fur seals prefer rocky shores. Ohau Point on the Kaikoura Coast, is an excellent place to see them.
Rocky outcrops off Ohau Point
The native ice plant, Dysphyma australe, grows in rock crevices.
There is now an extensive lookout area with good parking that has been developed since the road was severely damaged during the 2016 Kaikoura earthquake. As almost the entire coastal section of the road had to be rebuilt, it was an opportunity to increase the quality of visitor experience along this wild coastline. All these images were made from points along the walkway.
Seals are still unpopular with some fishermen, and subject to occasional bouts of abuse. However, as city dwellers increasingly appreciate nature, seals are valued by many citizens, especially when wildlife comes to town.  They often join forces to protect seals from dogs when they haul out on popular beaches. The Department of Conservation has provided signage that volunteers can put out to alert dog walkers of the presence of seals. Sorry, I didn’t think to take photos when I accompanied a friend to put signs around a seal on Sumner Beach, in Christchurch. If it happens again, I’ll try to rectify this! There are more seal images from Ohau Point to follow.
Golden mantled ground squirrel: there were many of these active and inquisitive squirrels in and around the Green River campground.
Perched on a cottonwood treeAn empty beer can provided some entertainment, but no nutritional reward.
This national monument is the only place where I have seen white tailed prairie dogs. They live in much smaller groups than their black tailed relatives, so, being used to the large prairie dog towns of the latter, when I first saw this one poking its head out from under a rock I assumed it was a ground squirrel.
Taranaki, in the southwest of the North Island of New Zealand, has been relatively isolated from the rest of the country, a knob that juts out into the Tasman Sea. In the centre of the knob, rises the majestic volcano of Taranaki Maunga. I think of the area as a more benign, version, both in terms of climate and soil fertility, of the South Island’s West Coast.
Taranaki Maunga
The high rainfall characteristic of both areas promotes lush natural forest, while its clearance has made way for a profitable dairying industry. A large, circular area around Taranaki Maunga stretching some ten kilometers from the peak in every direction, was preserved by the Forest Service in the last years of the nineteenth century. The abrupt transition to dairy pasture is visible from the air as an almost perfect circle.
Looking out across the forest below the mountain peak.
Although when I first visited Taranaki it was relatively unknown, the area now receives a smattering of tourists, most of whom zero in on the mountain itself. In spite of dire warnings from the Department of Conservation deterring would be hikers with insufficient experience and equipment from attempting the climb, it is extremely popular. Social media posts on successful climbs in perfect weather attract hoards of aspirant climbers. In addition to the summit routes, there are many walks through the forest along tracks that make their way tortuously across the deep indentations running down the flanks of the volcano.
WaterfallLower Wilkies Pool
In addition to agriculture, Taranaki hosts a number of specialist nurseries growing exotic plants for gardens throughout New Zealand. There are also some beautiful gardens, such as Pukeiti at the base of the mountain where many rare and interesting plants can be found. It is famous for its collection of rhododendrons, many of them grown old and seeding naturally into the lightly managed forest of natives and exotics. My visit was too late in the season to see many flowers. However, in sheltered areas near the main building, a collection of vireyas flowers all year round. Hydrangeas were still flowering too, providing another subject for my camera.
I was fascinated by mountain goats when I saw them first in Glacier National Park in Montana some years ago. Against the dark mountainside they looked so white and bright; they appeared as small, white dots in the most improbable places. Wide, cloven hooves equipped with rough pads, the equivalent of climbing shoes, give them outstanding grip on to steep rock faces. Mountain goats are powerful, but nimble too. They can jump more than three metres in a single bound. On Logan Pass, there were so many tourists that the goats were quite tame, and easy to photograph. Back then, though, I was using slide film.
These animals are not true goats, but closely related, somewhat like antelopes. They inhabit mountains of the northwestern United States and Canada and are well adapted to high altitude conditions and steep country. Their scientific name is Oreamnos americanus, the genus derived from Ancient Greek meaning ‘mountain lamb’. There are no other species in this genus, making the mountain goat unique. They are ancient, too, dating back to at least the Pleistocene.
Mountain goat yearling on Mount Evans in Colorado licking rock for mineral content
I photographed these individuals high up on Mount Evans in Colorado, where they are also easily seen and not difficult to approach. Mountain goats were first introduced to Mount Evans from Montana in 1947. There are fossil records of an extinct species of mountain goat from South Park, in Colorado, but the extant species is not native to the area. While hunters and wildlife photographers welcome this extension of the mountain goats’ range, biologists have argued that its introduction may disrupt the fragile ecology of high altitude areas of the Colorado Rocky Mountains and threaten native plant species growing there.
Demonstrating the goat’s ability to grip steep surfaces
The black tipped horns can be seen clearly in this image. They continue to grow during the animal’s life, producing annual growth rings. Male and female mountain goats are not easy to tell apart, as although males tend to be larger than females of the same age, their horns are much the same length. There are subtle differences in the horns, however, as females tend to have horns that curve more sharply towards the tips while horns of males are evenly curved throughout their length. In addition, mature males tend to be larger than mature females and more heavily built through the shoulders.
Group of goats on Mt Evans, probably a male, female and yearling
In winter, mountain goats grow and extra layer of wool, which has longer, hollow fibres that provide a lightweight but very warm coat. In spring, as the temperature rises, they shed this outer layer.
Note the beard and spreading hoofOn top of the world
From atop Mount Evans, a fourteen thousand foot peak, the views go on for ever, provided the distant mountains are not obscured by smoke from fires. These photographs were taken in August 2019.
I love trees and have attributed personality to this specimen in beech forest at Arthur’s Pass National Park. Playing with iPhone apps that produce a variety of creative effects allows me to experiment with camera movement. Many of the results are unexpected, but with practise, sometimes I manage to create the effects that I’m after.
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